On Pilgrimage to Austria

Perhaps the symbol that best represents our experience of Austria is the magnificent cathedral or towing church spire that jets up into the blue aurora of heaven. Coming from modern America, these vestiges of civilization are not only places of divine worship, but also centers of culture and learning.

With the close of the Platonic Academy in Greece, the fall of Rome, the chaos around the continent, and the dawn of St. Benedict and his balanced vision of work and prayer, Ora et Labora, the monastery became a privileged place in European societyy and for Western Civilization in general. The monasteries preserved the ancient manuscripts, fostered intellectual growth and development, and nurtured Christianity in an otherwise dark age.

Certainly the apogee of the monastic life culminated in the Middle Ages. In the late 1700’s, it took an extreme decline after the Hapsburg Emperor Joseph II closed many contemplative monastic orders in Austria. Nevertheless, there are a host of beautiful and extremely active monasteries crisscrossing the country. For the average American whose history is no more than a few hundred years old, the monasteries are stunningly incredulous, spanning over a millennium with all their architectural grandeur and sublime atmosphere. For example, the glorious cathedral in Melk stands in all its grandiloquence off the main interstate that connects Vienna and Salzburg and dates back to 1089 when Leopold II gave the castle to Benedictine monks from Lambach. Today, they run an active school for over 300 boys and girls, and offer tours to literally thousands of visitors. Its modern museum, stunning library and magnificent Baroque church offer a pictorial history of former times as well as its work and prayer in the modern world.

Another fabulous monastery in Austria is Klosterneuburg, on the outskirts of Vienna. For nearly 900 years the Augustinian canons of the Monastery have performed pastoral, economic, social and cultural functions. Their wine production is especially exquisite as their vineyards are distributed across four famous wine towns and villages: Klosterneuburg, Vienna, Gumpoldskirchen and Tattendorf, boasting prize-winning wines in nearly all categories. In addition, numerous artistic treasures and the impressive architectural heritage can be viewed via the thematic tours through the monastery or by visiting the monastery museum. Even more impressive, the area is bedewed in faith as it serves the modern world through its dedication to faith and culture.

Another specifically European tradition associated with these monasteries is the idea of a pilgrimage. In America we walk literally everywhere, even just down the road. But in Austria as with other places in Europe, the age old custom of going on a pilgrimage is still alive. Pilgrims travel sometimes hundreds of miles on foot to visit a locale of faith, seeking union with God or a special favor.

Just one hour from our Austrian Campus in Gaming, there is small town of a few thousand people named Mariazell. Yet, despite its remote location, it hosts over 1 million pilgrims a year who come on foot, bus, and van to visit the Basilica dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Many miracles including healings have happened here, and consequently many of the sick person’s belongings such as crutches have been left in thanksgiving—quite the site to see. These tokens of affection including many gifts and cards are preserved above the church in the museum. Ironically, pulling off the side of the road last week, we stopped for a few minutes at the monastery of Heiligenkreuz. As we toured the grounds, I noticed a sign for a pilgrimage path to Mariazell, over 100 kilometers away! It was evident that many make the pilgrimage starting at austere but charming Cistercian abbey and ending at the other end in a gorgeous rococo cathedral.

Indeed, on the outside and from afar, a grand basilica or cathedral often looks dark and dreary.One can hastily inquire: why stop and go in? But once inside, with the sun shining through the stain glass windows, its transcendent beauty pervades and triumphs over former prejudices.

Our experience of Austria has been apt. We didn’t know what to expect from a small tiny country which was a center of Nazism and used to be the center of the Holy Roman Empire. Yet, after living here five years, its magnificent landscapes, the friendliness of its people, the purity of its water, mountains, and air, its preeminence in music, skiing, and culture, and its often idiosyncratic but understanding way of looking at the world has captivated our hearts and won us over. Austria shines with all the glory of a stained-glass basilica or cathedral.

The question is: are you willing to make the pilgrimage, to make the sacrifices and come and see for yourself. In former times, they had it right: they knew that good things often take a journey with much sacrifice on the way.

This has been our experience. We left home on pilgrimage to Austria. We gave up our car, house, and many of the comforts of American life. I’m still an American patriot at heart, with all my passion for red, white, and blue. But in leaving America we discovered Austria in all its beauty.Come see it from the inside! Come and brave small town Austria.