Glories of Italy

A blog post by Dan McNally, Spring 2011

The Gaming students have returned from our ten-day journey through Italy. I would be quite impressed if any of my fellow bloggers are able to encompass their entire experience in one post. I will attempt to express the highlights in two separate posts. One will describe my experience at the North American College, where many seminarians, including my older brother, study in preparation for the Catholic priesthood. This particular post will cover what I consider three spiritual highpoints of my experience in Italy: The exposure to the saints and the connection to our history and heritage, the hermitage of St. Francis of Assisi, and the Eucharistic miracle at Lanciano.

Arriving in Rome was, as I suppose it is for many Catholics, like coming home: more so for me as my family had been to Rome on pilgrimage just a few years back. The profundity of the splendor of Rome is unchanging. They say that if one drops a line straight down from the cupola of St. Peter’s Basilica, it would reach St. Peter’s tomb. The majesty of this city, in combination with the richness of being the heart of God’s Church on earth, gives me the impression that the line continues up through the cupola and right into heaven itself. There really is nothing like standing before the dome of St. Peter’s while walking in the footsteps of the men and women we’ve only ever read about. We saw more saints in just a few days than many people see in their entire lives. Upon visiting St. Luke’s tomb in Padua just days before, a friend of mine told me, “I just prayed a Hail Mary before the tomb of the man who wrote it.” Standing (but mostly kneeling) in these churches, before the (sometimes incorrupt) bodies of the witnesses who have gone before us marked with the sign of faith, one cannot help but feel a very real connection to the faith that sometimes resides only in the mind. Looking at St. Anthony’s incorrupt tongue, seeing the tunic of St. Francis, seeing the very bones of Peter, the one to whom Christ entrusted the keys of His kingdom, brought the reality of truth even closer to my mind and heart. These are not men in a story on a page. These were human beings who ate, drank, bled, cried, and lived--truly lived to the fullest. They could be touched, they could be spoken to. This is no out-of-date Church of antiquity; this is the Church of the living God.

The time in Rome was incredible, but the fast paced city, crowded metro, and exhaustive touring had taken a toll on the student body. The peaceful countryside, the rarefied and holy air of Assisi awaited us. Upon arriving, we immediately began with a tour of the Portiuncula Church (St. Mary of the Angels) in lower Assisi. There we prayed in the famous portiuncula, after which our adoration chapel on the main Steubenville campus is modeled. Apart from tours, students enjoyed various activities including the famous Mauro, who would give students very good discounts for his leather products. Gelato and delicious meals were also enjoyed.

On Friday, we were led just outside of town to a path that led up the side of the mountain on which Assisi was built. We were told this mountain path led to the hermitage where Francis and some of his brothers would go to pray in solitude. The walk was nearly silent, as students meditated and prayed the whole way. I realized soon that this path was a consistent incline, and it was not letting up. Sometimes I walked alongside friends, and sometimes paces changed, and I found myself alone and exhausted. Sometimes there was shade, and sometimes the sun beat down. Quickly, a theme started developing. I saw this journey as the Christian walk. The walk is always uphill, because with God as our goal, we must always move upward towards Him. I thought during this time that Calvary, too, was no small hill. We all carry our crosses with Christ at our side. This upward walk is not easy, and so too, the Christian life can be a struggle for the one who takes seriously God’s call to holiness, but who better to walk alongside than Christ? Sometimes we walk with friends by our side offering encouragement, and sometimes we walk alone, because our pace will not always match up. In all these times, we grow. As I walked, though, I could almost hear St. Francis speak to me, “Brother Daniel, keep on moving--Just a little further.” Times when I felt tired and in pain I saw analogously as the attempts of the devil to convince the Christian that it is not worth the climb: that his struggle is in vain. Once we reached the hermitage, we realized that the climb was worth it. Here we were at peace. A small stone building tucked away into a vast forest along the side of a great mountain became our place of rest--that resting place that points to the rest and peace of final beatitude. Many paths wound through the forest and met each other. As I walked, I was blessed to see friends sitting and praying in silent, joyful contemplation. Something was encouraging in seeing them there, in sharing this vision with them. Some I walked by and quietly acknowledged, but not a word was spoken. Words were not necessary. What must God have prepared for those who love Him?

Leaving Assisi was not easy to do, but with friends by my side, I headed to Lanciano, seeking out Jesus Christ in the flesh. The site of arguably the greatest Eucharistic miracle in history, Lanciano is a small Italian town on the eastern coast. A doubtful priest was celebrating Mass, and at the consecration, the consecrated host became flesh and the wine became real blood. Extensive scientific testing have confirmed the veracity of the account, and given more information on it. It is a fascinating story.

Traveling with my three roommates brought much joy and laughter, which was needed as our journey was fraught with trials and opportunities for patience. After just a few short train rides, we arrived in a train station where a five-hour overnight layover waited with brandished fangs. There was no real danger, but being in a cold train station with very shady, and sometimes loud, drunk, and rude individuals through the heart of the night was disconcerting to say the least. We had gone from the sublimity of Assisi to the dregs of “the real world”. At our next stop we missed our train on account of not knowing Italian. Eventually, we reached the Lanciano train station, but we needed to take a bus to reach the town. Now from 12:00-3:00, the chapel is closed, and the miracle is not open for public viewing. Our 25 minute bus ride began at 11:30 and the only bus back was before 3:00. We had just spent an entire night with two five-hour layovers and a missed train to now not reach our destination. For a moment I was demoralized, but I realized in that moment, seeing the Eucharistic miracle was not what life was about. I realized in that moment that I should be grateful for what I do have, a family that loves me, great friends who are willing to put up with me in travels, a God who longs for me every second that I breathe. If I just wasted one day and a lot of Euro, it really wasn’t a waste, because I am blessed beyond compare. However, we did try the bus, and not only was the chapel open when we arrived, but it remained open during the Mass that was being celebrated. We adored our Lord while the Italian congregation sang aloud God’s praises. In our moment of doubt, God came through for us, and revealed his body and blood to us in a profound way. What better way to experience the miracle of Lanciano than by experiencing the priest’s doubt, only to be surprised by God’s providence.

Well, certainly I have been long-winded enough. Hopefully some of this has been appreciated and perhaps helpful or edifying by God’s grace. These experiences certainly moved me in a big way. All you readers please be assured of our prayers for you. You are loved and missed, but we are all together in Christ, and we will see you soon! God be with you!